In 1860 a man entered the now historical halls of Richmond’s Exchange Hotel, a popular spot in America’s Southern state. The tourist was bearded, stately, and elaborately clothed for the tender age of 19. The truth was, the man was no mere man. He was Albert Edward, the Prince of Wales, and he was about to have his first mint julep, and not just any julep, but Virginia’s renowned “hail-storm” julep. This may seem like an inconsequential moment in history, but it was a big deal for white people everywhere. For one, British royalty was partaking in a beloved American trend. This would make the American julep official, at least to the British monarchy and anyone who cared about them. On the flip side, the Royals were finally catching up to the cool kids. An image of the prince leaning over his pile of minted ice sipping whiskey through a straw would surely make the prince more relatable, certainly more likable to drinkers all over the world. Maybe it would make them more popular.
The julep was served in a large sterling silver goblet that was covered in ice, and embellished with carnations, roses, and violets nestled next to grapes bananas, peaches, and strawberries. The goblet was served so cold, that patrons were amazed at how much frost collected on the outside of the whiskey chalice. And I can only imagine how delicious that crisp sweet whisky must have been as it rose up the straw and coated your mouth with crisp hints of toasty rye and mint. The ‘hailstorm’ julep wasn’t just a drink, it was a Southern celebrity. As was its creator, John Dabney whom the ‘Times’ wrote was the ‘most famous concoctor of juleps of that day.’
Dabney was beloved amongst Virginian’s, especially the ones who drank juleps. The bartender was referred to in the papers as an “institution.” It was said that Virginia was “proud of him” even “idolized” him. Many claimed the state owed him an ‘eternal debt of gratitude.’ I’m thinking the prince must have liked him because he left the man a $20 gold coin as a tip. Dabney graciously received the money with the words, “I’d make them every minute of the day for that.” The tip was a big one, one equivalent to dropping $735.20 into a bartender’s hands today. It seems gracious of the Prince of Wales, but does make me wonder, did Prince Albert know that John Dabney was a slave?
A $20 coin may have been the indentured bartender’s largest gratuity, but it wasn’t his first. Speaking of indebted, thanks to Dabney’s delicious julep and the patrons who tipped him heavily for it, the man was able to purchase some very expensive things. Like the freedom of his wife, his mother, and his children. And in 1862, even after the end of the Civil War, Dabney felt so bad for the a%&$*&^ (I’ll let you fill that word in) who owned him, that he dropped a giant stack of bills on her table to pay off his own obsolete contract, a baller move if you ask me, so baller that all of the banks in Virginia were willing to loan Dabney as much money as he wanted. As a result, Dabney was able to educate his children, to purchase land, a house, a restaurant, and eventually his own bar. Although I love that John Dabney was able to escape many of the major pitfalls of the racist South, I think the true significance of the mint julep is often overlooked.
The mint julep is classic, so classic that it’s possible it even predates the cocktail. This isn’t surprising considering sailors were putting mint in their rations for hundreds of years before America even came to be. But the first written record of the drink as we know it, surfaces in 1803. John Davis, a Londoner who had visited the States described it as “a dram of spiritous liquor with mint steeped in it.” Four years later, the Julep’s recipe evolved to include heaps of ice. And by the late 19th century, the sought-after julep had become an international superstar. It was a symbol of America, a ‘must-do’ tourist activity for anyone who travelled to the United States. Just ask Frederick Marryat, Washington Irving, or Charles Dickens. During its heyday, the drink was considered more “American” than apple pie. It was so iconic that southern communities across the US still argue about its origin. Virginia, Kentucky, West Virginia, even Texas have all claimed the julep as a product of their region’s culture. It’s easy to debate this origin because initially, the recipe for a julep was an oral tradition, the instruction calling for ‘grasses’ to be added to sweetened whiskey and ice. Knowing this, it’s hard for me to imagine a southern plantation owner asking their bartender to throw a little grass into their drink.
As popular as the julep recipe was to enthusiastic white drinkers, it was a prized possession for black drink makers. The mint julep was a cocktail that African American bartenders became celebrities for. Their mastery of this drink in some cases helped them buy business, acquire wealth, and the respect of their patrons across the nation. The truth is, today’s mint julep was likely invented and at the very least, perfected by poor, indentured African American slaves. Men who had to pass on the recipe by word of mouth, because it was illegal to teach a slave to read or write. Men who clearly did not need a formal education to cultivate good taste. Men to whom Americans owe “an eternal debt of gratitude” because much of their work was overshadowed or hijacked by arrogant citizens who thought they owned them. Maybe instead of arguing over state lines and drunken past times, julep lovers everywhere can embrace the drink as a product of an amalgamation of culture, rather than the definition of it. Maybe it can be revered for what it truly is, a symbol of the reality that African Americans had a massive impact on the evolution of their nation’s culture. And maybe those still having this debate without acknowledging their contribution can go ahead and stick that in their straw in that and suck it.
**What do you think? Did you know about the history of the julep? Did you know of the story of John Dabney, or any other black bartenders? Am I being too hard on the American South? I want to know! Please share your thoughts/comments below.