Of all the bartenders nearing the end of the 19th century, William Schmidt (yes, another William) seems to be written about in the press the most. Many refer to him as the second greatest bartender of his time. The first being Jerry Thomas of course. I’d say that isn’t such a bad level of status for someone who did not go on a multinational publicity campaign the way Jerry had done. Of all the barkeeps of the time, William’s name does appear in the papers most often. But that is because the name itself was common, especially among other bartenders in United States. It was so common, that the words “The Only” became an added epithet to his notoriety.
“The Only” William Schmidt was born in Hamburg, Germany and moved to Chicago in 1869. During his time in the White City, the man made a name for himself while heading the bar at Tivoli Gardens, where he gracefully passed liquids to and fro in a manner that would challenge the finesse of any great bartender of his era. By 1884 he had relocated to New York City. Four years later William’s name surfaced in newspapers across the United States. His drinks were described as airy, beautiful, and delicious. Known as a ‘good talker’ and good company at the bar, he was often referred to as an artist, a poet, and man of heart, one who dedicated so much of his time and care into the person sitting in front of him. The bartender once claimed that the secret to his lauded gin fizzes was in his whole bodied shake. (Talk about putting everything into your work!) By 1892 William also wrote two books the first entitled Fancy Drinks and Popular Beverages, the second, The Flowing Bowl. These books contained hundreds and hundreds of recipes, many of which were his own. Still, a lot of William’s innovative drink combinations were left out. But that is because William was constantly creating new ones. It was stated that the barman could concoct an original, delicately balanced cocktail on the spot and still impress the discerning pallet of his customers.
By the turn of the century William had opened his own bar but when his business partner suddenly passed away, the budding entrepreneur sold the place and returned to bar service. And although the man had achieved great success, this is where his life gets interesting to me. Because after the death of his business partner, things seem to go a bit south for the lauded William Schmidt. In 1904, the celebrity’s employer forced him out of the business. This is said to be because William showed signs of a stroke. I could not find a date of birth for William so I don’t know how old he was at the time. However only one year after being ousted, William Schmidt passed away at the Bellevue Hospital. The hospital had diagnosed him with dementia.
Although the barman was one of the cocktail’s greatest celebrities, because the man never married and had no family in the States, (and because his employer was clearly a jerk) he died alone and penniless with no one to claim his body. This news eventually reached the saloon where William had served so many faithful customers. It was there that a group of friends and regulars organized, raised money and ensured the unforgettable William Schmidt’s body was put to rest with community and dignity.
It is sometimes too easy to overlook the generous, and heartfelt work of people who operate behind a bar, especially when they make the job look fun. And bartenders who carry the stressful load of a work shift can easily forget what a great impact they can have on their customer. It is a special kind of magic that occurs when a just few hours of service are so rewarding that they leave a lasting impression, especially when it develops into a routine schedule of social interaction, exchange and connection. To have a bartender who can estimate your needs and appeal to your specific tastes requires a unique level of intimacy. And it is one that isn’t taken lightly. That is what this man’s legacy highlights for me. When William Schmidt died, it wasn’t a legion of reporters, or publishers, or popular personalities who paid their respects. It wasn’t a doubting wife or children. It was the people he dedicated his life to. The ones he stood in front of and served for hours on end, the ones who applauded him with their time and company. The people who loved him most were his regulars. And that says something. To me, this is a testimony to the strength of the bond that can form during the service of cocktail hospitality. It is truly one of a kind.
**What do you think? Is this a sad ending to William Schmidt’s life? Are you a regular at any bars? If so, do you feel like you share a special bond with the bartenders there? I want to know! Share your thoughts in the comments/chat below!